Bloom Reports
A Collection of Bloom Reports from the Methow Valley, Washington
This collection of Bloom Reports was written and collated by George Wooten
for displays at Methow Valley Ranger District Stations over the latter
1990's. In this index, they are arranged in order by Month, and secondly
by year.
MARCH - APRIL BLOOM REPORTS
March 2008
From Dana Visalli:
I hiked up the south slope of Eagle Rocks today (3.3.08)—from the Balky Hill road, looking for bluebirds and buttercups. I didn’t see any bluebirds, but just 30 feet below the “summit” was one quite large, fully open buttercup flower. The earliest record I have for these is 2.20.05, in the same spot.
A seasonal marker that is probably completely dependent upon actual spring “temperature units” (days and hours above 32 degrees) is when the catkin buds break on the cottonwoods, such that the trees start to show a blush of green. The earliest date I have for this area is 3.30.04 for the trees at the Twisp Confluence Park (also 4.8.06 and 4.15.99), and 4.18.99 and 4.21.07 at the Winthrop park (no record for Winthrop in 04 or 06).
March - April 1997
This year was fast-paced and exciting. Everyone was anxious and raring
to get out and hike! The snows were the deepest in years (112" at Twin
Lakes near Winthrop by Jan 7), and many houses, barns and backs gave out
with a
whoomp! and a
boom! during the deep snows. It took
snoeshoes just to get to the compost heap. Twisp seemed to get more snow
than Mazama, reflecting the cold weather that persevered through the southern
storms, which are the storms that usually bring water, not snow in winter
(but not in 1998).
I bet Art Kruckeberg that the liliaceous bulbs of yellow bells (
Fritillaria
pudica) would be first up in 1998, and I was almost right. Actually,
the first flowering plants (not counting alders) that I saw were glacier
lilies (
Erythronium grandiflorum) blooming profusely in the burned
areas at the east base of the Blewett Pass road near Leavenworth, on March
23, 1997.
On March 25, south facing hillsides near Carlton in the Methow Valley
had sagebrush buttercups (
Ranunculus glaberrimus), yellow bells,
one plant of languid ladies (
Mertensia longiflora), spring beauties
(
Claytonia lanceolata), and one plant of
Lomatium ambiguum.
The arrowleaf balsamroots soon followed suit, and gave me my first taste
of tender spring shoots. Only plants less than an inch tall and growing
near snow packs are free from bitterness.
Covering the hill were many bright yellow "blooms" of
rust
on
Arabis holboellii, smelling of daffodils. It has been documented
that a rust can infect
Arabis holboellii leaves, yellowing them
in a false display designed to attract pollinators searching for early
flowers, and even going so far as to produce the daffodil-like fragrance.
It was surprising this April to find this also occurring on the leaves
of a single plant of dagger-pod (
Phoenicaulis cheiranthoides). In
my first encounter with this plant, I bent down with Lanette Smith to view
at close hand what initially appeared to be our first spring buttercup.
As we bent close, we smelled the powerful daffodil aroma, just as a large
bumble bee buzzed under our noses onto the bright yellow leaf rosette,
took one sniff and buzzed away indignantly!
On April 12, the cottonwoods were just budding out at Pateros, and
by April 15, serviceberry bushes were blooming in Grand Coulee. Above the
coulees on flood-scoured basalt soils sagebrush pansies (
Viola trinervata)
were in bloom, along with Hooker's balsamroot (
Balsamorhiza hookeri),
nine-leaf biscuit root (
Lomatium triternatum), chocolate tips (
Lomatium
dissectum), the low, yellow-and-white flowers with contrasting black
anthers of
Hesperichiron pumilus, white cushions of
Phlox hoodii
(which have styles up to 10 mm long, despite the claim in Hitchcron that
they normally only reach to 5 mm in length), bluebells (
Mertensia oblongifolia,
with hairy leaves--not expected), tower mustards (e.g.,
Arabis cusickii,
A.
holboellii), and dagger-pod (
Phoenicaulis cheiranthoides).
By April 22, the cottonwood buds were blooming in Winthrop, and whole
hillsides were beginning to turn yellow. The hills of Studhorse Mountain
above Winthrop were flourescent green with chocolate tips (
Lomatium
dissectum). In Grand Coulee, serviceberries were in bloom. Lupines
and bitterbrush were slow to emerge, and made the spring a long, drawn-out,
wonderfully complex affair.
MAY BLOOM REPORTS
May 1998
No serviceberries! Zip, nada! Last year they wore themselves out. The
same was generally true for the balsamroots, however the lupines (
Lupinus
spp.) came out unaffected, as they regurlarly do year to year.
May 1997
This is the year of the serviceberry. Amazing displays were found throughout
the upper Wenatchee, Entiat, Methow and Okanogan valleys. Open forests
were dabbled with white fountains. There was so little time between snow
melt and peak bloom for many species that there wa practically nowhere
that wasn't fantastic. Balsamroots (
Balsamorhiza spp.) are striping
the hills where different times of snowmelt kept the ground cooler longer.
The Nuttall's larkspurs passed north of Mazama on May 14, and there were
even
Penstemon pruinosus blooming in Twisp. Strangely, there were
no lupines in the Methow Valley in May of 1997. They must be on a different
clock. On cliffs above Mazama, the paintbrushes (
Castilleja hispida,
C.
miniata) were out on May 10. This was certainly the greenest year anybody
could recall for decades. Even the little annuals put on twice as much
leaf area, due to the spring. Heat waves on May 10-15 have resulted in
nearly complete disappearance of the yellow bells (
Fritillaria pudica)
till next spring.
May 1996
On or about the first of May, bitterbrush shrubs (
Purshia tridentata)
become laden with fragrant blooms throughout lower elevations of Okanogan
and Chelan counties, mid-central Washington. It is a sign that the ephemeral
spring flowers are about to be eclipsed by the dominants in this semi-arid
ecosystem.
In 1996, the spring ephemerals put on a fair show; last year's wet spring
was far more spectacular. Many of our arid species have large storage roots,
for instance the sagebrush buttercup (
Ranunculus glaberrimus), salt
and pepper (
Lomatium gormanii, and other
Lomatium spp.),
the balsamroots (e.g.,
Balsamorhiza sagittata) and the yellow bells
(
Fritillaria pudica). When these plants have a great year, as in
1995, the following year often seems so-so, even if ample moisture exists,
and this appeared to be the case in 1996. Also in 1996, an early spring
was followed by weeks of cold weather, so flower displays were drawn out
over a longer season, which somewhat compensated for the less-than-spectacular
show for some species. The blooms of arrowleaf balsamroot at low elevation
were almost all killed by a late frost, but at higher elevations, some
balsamroots bloomed that were still dormant during the frosts.
Plants which ignore the above pattern are the ones to watch for: serviceberry
(
Amelanchier alnifolia, and its subspecies),
Phlox spp.,
bluebells or languid ladies (
Mertensia longiflora) and bitterbrush.
The bitterbrush blooms produce an almost hypnotic fragrance when blooming
en masse, that is reminiscent of jasmine and cinnamon. Combined with the
camphor in the sagebrush and the vanilla-like scent that comes from ponderosa
pine pitch, warm evenings can be a memorable event. Allergy sufferers can
best appreciate these smells after a heavy rain, when the air is clearer.
North Central Washington has a number of beautiful Phlox species, many
of which grow in multi-hued cushions. The common
Phlox longiflora
tends to be pink,
Phlox speciosa tends towards whitish-pink, and
other species often arrange their themes around bluish hues. At low elevations
different plants of
Phlox cespitosa make pink and blue palette patterns;
at higher elevations,
Phlox diffusa forms multi-hued mats of blue
and blush, beginning at the end of June.
Above 3000 feet, the buds are just starting to break in the forested
zones. Solomon's seal (
Smilacina racemosa and
S. stellata)
were both gorgeous in 1996. The first Calypso orchids, or fairy slippers
(
Calypso bulbosa) usually peek out about now, and its regal beauty
is worthy of a search by visiting vacationers to North Central Washington,
where it often grows in mossy, north-facing or shady areas. By the end
of May, most of the trails on the Swauk, Entiat, Chelan, Wenatchee, and
Okanogan main tributaries were opening up, but snow lingered along the
streamsides for another month after that. If an area is just budding out,
one can often find more blooms by looking for trails at lower elevations,
or further down the main drainages. US Forest Service Ranger District offices
can help direct visitors to open areas.
May 1995
Once again this year, the Okanogan countryside was riotous with yellow
hillside displays of arrowleaf balsamroot. The amount of bloomage seemed
to be related to winter and spring precipitation, which piled snow three
feet deep in Winthrop. Some people think the floral displays are late this
year, but my friend Emmett, who tracks these sort of things, says that
the balsamroots in Mazama are only four days later than last year. It does
seem like all of the wildflowers are blooming simultaneously, rather than
spread out in time, and this might be related to the relatively sudden,
late snowmelt.
Travelers through our area who don't know arrowleaf balsamroot, which
is the same in Latin (
Balsamorhiza sagittata), can usually recognize
it correctly as being in the sunflower family. A number of other sunflowers
can be seen throughout the state, including several other species of Balsamorhiza,
annual sunflower (
Helianthella uniflora) and mule's ears (
Wyethia
amplexicaulis). Good places to view arrowleaf balsamroot would be south-facing
dry hillsides at low elevations, close to the Columbia River, and in open
areas such as Alta Lake State Park and the Methow Game Range and other
state wildlife areas such as those near Conconully.
Other plants that respond positively to winter precipitation loads (as
opposed, to just blooming the same time and same amount each year) are
those with bulbs or corms. This includes the yellow bells (
Fritillaria
pudica), onions (
Allium spp.), spring beauty (
Claytonia lanceolata),
and the genus
Calochortus, which includes desert tulips, mariposa
lilies and cat's ears (
Calochortus lyallii). Look for these desert
gems from May to June in most open areas and grasslands of the Okanogan
countryside. Lilies and orchids that grow in forested areas, however, are
still under the snow, so check first to see if an area is open. This year
some trails were closed due to the heavy snows and avalanches in winter.
As spring warmed into summer, the cinnamon-jasmine smell of bitterbrush
(
Purshia tridentata) blooms moved up the main tributaries. On the
first of May, the bitterbrush were blooming along the Columbia River near
Entiat. Near Chelan, the canyons were vivid with pink-white clumps of phlox
and desert buckwheats. Purple sage (
Salvia dorrii) soon followed
suit, decorating the roadsides. Travelers into the upper Methow, Entiat
and Wenatchee valleys should have noticed the unmatchable fragrance of
the black cottonwood (
Populus trichocarpa), as their sticky buds
opened. Giant cottonwoods in the upper Methow over seven feet in diameter
make this the largest diameter tree in the Valley (and state?). Big tree
lovers can also find giant western larch (
Larix occidentalis) at
Big Tree Botanical Area in Tonasket and ten-foot-plus diameter trunks of
red-cedar (
Thuja plicata) on the Wenatchee National Forest.
The lower trailheads and roads opened up as summer began, and this was
a memorable year as we tried to deal with recovery from the previous year's
fires and floods.
Late-breaking news! Lewisia tweedyi was spotted in bloom along the Chewuch
River. Look near large rocks and bare, sandy soil areas for groups of creamy
flowers a couple inches across, with broad, slightly succulent leaves about
six inches long. This is one of the less common species of the North Cascades,
and it does not occur elsewhere in the whole, wide world.
May 1993
Lowland bloom displays were extra-spectacular in 1993, with good displays
of arrowleaf balsamroot (Balsamorhiza sagittata) and other spring ephemerals
in the foothills of the lower ponderosa pine / bitterbrush / bunchgrass
zone. Local folks couldn't remember when the serviceberries (
Amelanchier
alnifolia) were quite this fluorescent, and the homestead apples and
apricots were equally spectacular. Due to the late season coolness and
the sudden onset of warmer weather, blooms were forced to pop up all at
once, and the main flush soon moved up to the upper parts of the bitterbrush
zones and into the lower Douglas fir forested zones.
Main displays of balsamroot continued atop the ridges at the mouths
of most tributaries to the Methow, Twisp, and Chewuch Rivers, as the lower
elevations began showing daisie, bitterbrush (
Purshia tridentata),
larkspurs (
Delphinium spp.), penstemons and Douglas sunflower (
Helianthella
uniflora), while the shadier or cooler parts of the forested zones
began their displays of orchids, mountain lilac (
Ceanothus sanguineus),
tiger lilies (
Lilium columbianum), Solomon's seal (
Smilacina
spp.), and heart-leaf Arnica (Arnica cordifolia).
The heavy production of bitterbrush blooms caused still evenings to
be heavily cinnamon-jasmine-scented for a few weeks.
Most of the high country was, of course, still wet and snowy in May,
but lower trailheads were floriferous as far up as the blooming of the
glacier lilies (
Erythronium grandiflorum).
JUNE BLOOM REPORTS
June 1995
So many flowers are putting on strong showings this year, due to our
snowy winter and sunny spring, that was hard to recommend a particular
plant or area to spend time in. Although the main balsamroot blooms in
the valley bottoms came and went by June, the Douglas sunflowers (
Helianthella
uniflora) and mule's ears (
Wyethia amplexicaulis) were in mid-bloom
in June. Summer shows of bigleaf lupine (
Lupinus polyphyllus), sulfur
lupine (
Lupinus sulphureus) and velvet lupine (
Lupinus leucophyllus)
followed the displays of silky and white- stemmed lupines (
L. sericeus
and
L. leucophyllus). Few could recall seeing such blue hillsides
before, and the lupine was a major contributor, along with larkspur (
Delphinium
nuttallianum), annual phacelias (
Phacelia humilis and
P.
linearis), and lighter blue daisies (
Erigeron filifolius,
E. linearis,
E. poliospermus, and
E. corymbosus).
Cat's ears (
Calochortus lyallii) and other plants with starchy
roots did very well. The taller mariposa lilies or desert-tulip (
C.
macrocarpus) were still on the way, as they are deeper-rooted and may
not respond as strongly to heavy winter snows.
Hawksbeards did fine in 1995, in fact they are beautiful. What is a
hawksbeard? There are several species of
Crepis in our area, which
in our
Flora of the Pacific Northwest, by Hitchcock and Cronquist,
are claimed to be primarily apomorphic, which is to say that some of them
are self-fertile clones. Shocking. Anyway, they can be recognized by numerous
foot-long, yellow-flowering stems arising from a clump wavy-edged leaves.
The hawksbeards are not the only difficult genus in the sunflower family
or Compositae, now called the Asteraceae. Other difficult groups include
hawkweeds (
Hieracium), daisies (
Erigeron), Asters (
Asters),
and the pussytoes (
Antennaria). The common rosy pussytoes (
A.
roseum =
A. microphylla) comes in two sexes, with the boys dressed
in white and the girls dressed in pink. Of course.
Many good access points to follow flowers up into higher elevations
were open by July, but as of June 12, most trails north of Winthrop were
only open for a couple miles before they hit banks of snow surrounded by
glacier lilies. Hikers in reasonably good shape could follow cat's ears
and silky lupine right on up into the mountains, but horseback riders should
confirm that trails are open first. The upper Methow Trail was brushy,
but passable on foot, for three miles, for spectacular shows of Chelan,
or frosty, penstemon (
Penstemon pruinosus) and shrubby penstemon
(
P. fruticosus). In the Winthrop area, the Cub Creek and Rendezvous
areas are always good bets to see open meadows with lupine and cat's ears,
as well as more montane species.
Because so many flowers showed off this year, a good guidebook such
as Daniel Matthew's
Cascade-Olympic Natural History or Ron Taylor's
Sagebrush
Country would have been useful. These books identify the most commonly
seen plant species. Some plants, like paintbrushes and members of the sunflower
family however, require technical plant keys such as those found in floras.
On the Wenatchee and Okanogan, the orangish sticky paintbrush (
Castilleja
hispida) seems to be commoner than the scarlet-colored "common" paintbrush
(
C. miniata) that is usually listed in popular books on wildflowers.
Both paintbrushes are popular with hummingbirds. Some families of flowers,
that are moth-pollinated elsewhere, are hummingbird pollinated in the North
Cascades. What they lack in scent, they gain in showiness.
Besides the paintbrushes, other good examples of hummingbird-pollinated
flowers include the spectacular firecracker-flower (
Gilia aggregata
or
Ipomopsis aggregata), which prefers sandy hillslopes, and members
of the honeysuckle family, for example,
Lonicera ciliosa and
L.
hispidula, which barely enter the Methow from the West Cascades. Members
of the honeysuckle family abound in the wetter parts of the North Cascades,
but because of the cold winters in the interior, they become scarce on
the east slopes, with species represented more by shrubs than vines, as
in snowberries (
Symphoricarpos albus and
S. oreophilus) and
elderberries (
Sambucus cerulea and
S. racemosa).
Another adaptation to life in temperate forests has been acquired by
the twinflower (
Linnaea borealis, named after Carolus Linnaeus,
the father of taxonomy), also in the honeysuckle family. The plant clambers
like a vine within inches of the ground, where winter snows protect it
from the frost. Indeed, its leaves are neither deciduous, nor evergreen,
but instead are tardily deciduous, which is to say they hang on indefinitely,
unless it gets really severe. Twinflower lives under dense canopies, eking
out a living in cool, frost pockets, but if a treefall should open up the
canopy, twinflower's vine-like runners can scramble rapidly toward the
opening, to take advantage of the sunlight. Like other honeysuckles, its
stems are pithy inside, which also helps protect against frost damage.
In fact everything about this plant typifies the ecological dodges that
plants of temperate forests can take to cope with snowy winters, warm summers
and dense canopies.
June 1994
What an interesting year this was. As dry as the valleys were, there
was a surprisingly high water table higher up. The winter snow pack was
heavier above 4000 feet, and in addition we had a cold spring and several
late snows above 4500 feet elevation. What this meant for plants is that
the lowlands were really finishing their peak blooms early and the uplands
were really late!
Rhizomatous plants of shady environments, such as orchids and other
monocots, seem to benefit most from this regime. We saw exceptional blooms
of lady's slippers (
Cypripedium montanum), fairy slippers (
Calypso
bulbosa), lady's tresses (
Spiranthes romanzoffiana), rattlesnake
plantains (
Goodyera oblongifolia), Solomon's plumes (
Smilacina
stellata and
S. racemosa), and tiger lilies (
Lilium columbianum).
Seek out cool, mossy, generally north slopes near water for these showy
forest goddesses.
Grasses were growing profusely in 1994, in part from a very wet year
in '93. At lower elevations these were dominated by bluebunch wheatgrass
(
Agropyron spicatum) and Idaho fescue (
Festuca idahoensis).
Higher up, pinegrass (
Calamagrostis rubescens) is the commonest
grass. The Indian paintbrushes (
Castilleja miniata and
C. hispida)
are widespread in grassy areas, where they form root associations with
grasses and mycorrhizal fungi.
Mosses and lichens are responsive to alternating wet-dry environments.
They are most visible after a rain, on cliffs and talus slopes throughout
the forest. Almost all trails on the Okanogan cross many rock outcrops,
but there are differences between watersheds. The Chewuch drainage seems
to be the sandiest, the Methow has a higher precipitation, and the Twisp
seems to specialize in aspect-controlled meadow mosaics.
Remember the Okanogan was under a mile or two of ice 12,000 years ago.
Therefore, one can find many plants adapted to the sandy "glacial till".
Firecracker flower (
Gilia aggregata, or
Ipomopsis aggregata)
in the phlox family is a noticeable sand lover on the Loup-Loup road. Other
plants of sandy soils are the pussytoes (
Antennaria spp.), blazing
star (
Mentzelia laevicaulis), forget-me-nots (
Cryptantha
spp.), and bitterbrush (
Purshia tridentata). The bitterbrush put
on an exceptionally powerful bloom this year, with strong scents of jasmine
and cinnamon, but the main bloom was over within days.
In calcareous swales and drainages at lower elevation, which can often
be located by the presence of giant clumps of basin wild rye (
Elymus
glaucus), look for strong shows of mock orange (
Philadelphus lewisii),
which puts on good shows every year.
It was difficult to predict what was in store for us at higher elevations.
Buds broke at 4000 feet on May 15 on south slopes, but were still dormant
at 5500 feet on north slopes. It seemed that plants of cool, moist areas
would do well, i.e., the Pyrolas, kinnickinnick, prince's pine, huckleberries,
and plants of spruce forests. What we got was a nearless sunless year--the
great Washington fires in late July and early August made 1994 a smoky,
hazy year, even though the lightning-caused fires, thousands of them,
started early when the plants were still very green.
June 1993
Wildflower displays changed considerably as the early bloomers either
went dormant or moved to the higher elevations. The leaves of Chocolate-tips
(
Lomatium dissectum) were already an orange tinge as it went to
seed, and the balsamroots (
Balsamorhiza sagittata) were replaced
by displays of Douglas sunflower (
Helianthella uniflora). Mid-summer
flowers such as the composites, scrophs, and grasses came into dominance
in the lowlands and salsify (
Tragopogon dubius), that darling non-native,
put on good shows on cloudy days. The lowlands were replete with elderberry
(
Sambucus cerulea), frosty or Chelan penstemon (
Penstemon pruinosus),
and daisies (
Erigeron filifolius,
E. linearis, and others)
in bloom. Roadside displays of
Penstemon fruticosus mats and glistening
purple-frosted plants of
P. pruinosus were spectacular.
The midmontane zone was really where the flowers were blooming in June.
Loup-Loup Pass was splashed with the red of scarlet gilia (
Gilia aggregata=
Ipomopsis
aggregata) and heart-leaf arnica (
Arnica cordifolia). For those
who missed spring in the lowlands, there was a second chance higher up
for finding spring beauties (
Claytonia lanceolata) at about 5000
feet elevation in forest openings, along with the little white salt-and-pepper
(
Lomatium gormanii), Betty blue-lips (
Collinsia parviflora)
and avalanche lilies (
Erythronium grandiflorum). All of these were
blooming a month before down in the valleys and each year they continue
their journey on up to the highest peaks. Say good-bye to the balsamroot
in June, however, since it tops out at 5000 feet elevation.
The subalpine zone was just beginning to show off pussy-willows and
a few
Draba species and dandelions, but by the end of June that
zone was in full swing. Best chances for wildflower viewing in June are
the higher valleys and trailheads leading into the high country, wherever
Douglas fir grows. Look for openings in the canopy to let sunlight into
the understory for best displays. Happy hiking!
JULY BLOOM REPORTS
July 1995
Folks are saying it. No one can remember when they ever, ever saw such
spectacular displays of wildflowers. Perhaps it was the late-season cold
weather or perhaps it was the rain, but whatever, the leaves were greener
and healthier and the floral displays were more spectacular than ever.
Most of the bloom displays were happening over short periods, so local
adjustments to wildlfower viewing schedules came in rapid succession.
The bloom displays in the lowlands of the sagebrush-steppe zone were
finished in July. Already, the mock-orange plants (
Philadelphus lewisii)
were forming seeds, but during the waning months of June, incredibly bloom-laden
shrubs decorated all the lowlands. The lowland penstemons moved their peak
blooms up into the mountains, but one could still catch the shrubby penstemon
(
Penstemon fruticosus) blooming with scarlet gilia or firecracker
flower (
Gilia aggregata), on the mountain passes.
The last bloom report highlighted the lower montane zone, with lupines
and penstemons, but in July the action is in the upper montane zone and
just beginning in the subalpine zone. Lupines will always be found producing
powerful displays for the rest of the summer, but cool, moist situations
will delight the wildflower seeker with lush patches of saxifrages such
as mitre-worts (
Mitella spp.) and coolwort or foamflower (
Tiarella
spp.) Bog-orchids (
Platanthera spp.) are showing off their scents
as well as their good looks, and the liliaceous plants are positively lush
along trails in July. Look for Solomon's plumes (
Smilacina racemosa)
and Solomon's seals (
S. stellata), twisted stalks (
Streptopus
amplexifolius and
S. roseus), tiger lilies (
Lilium columbianum),
and bead lilies (
Clintonia uniflora) all flowering in unison.
July 1994
Somewhere between July 1 and July 15 the high country changed from wet
and cold to hot and dry. The heat forced all the plants out in a fantastic
frenzy of blooming. On south slopes, peak bloom in July was at about 6000
feet elevation, with awesome broadleaf lupine (
Lupinus latifolius)
displays. That is the common lupine of higher elevation, but on top of
the very tallest peaks there is a tidy dwarf lupine with the bluest flowers
of all (
Lupinus lepidus var.
lobbii =
Lepidus lyallii).
On tall peaks such as Slate Peak, the blue flowers seem to predominate
earlier, with silky phacelia (
Phacelia sericea), Jacob's ladders
or sky pilots (
Polemonium elegans,
P. pulcherrimum, and for
lucky climbers,
P. viscosum), thread-leaved sandwort (
Arenaria
capillaris), and Jessica's stickseed (
Hackelia micrantha) all
vying for the sun. A few weeks into July and the yellow petals of the daisy
family hold sway. Bud don't wait to see it. It's all gone too fast.
Despite what may at first seem like unbeatable heat in the valley, it
can be pleasantly cool in the mountains, and most trails become noticeably
flowerier as one ascends. Many trails follow tributaries of the Twisp,
Methow or Chewuch Rivers--these trails are great spots to see some of the
ancient trees that we have in the Okanogan. What they lack in height they
make up for in age, with almost every tree invariably scarred with fire,
lightning, and mistletoe--real survivors! While hiking across a hot, south
slope, the shade of a Douglas fir or ponderosa pine is highly appreciated.
While sitting there, note that the chartreuse "hair" on the trunks of all
the big trees is really wolf lichen (
Letharia vulpina).
Visitors to the Methow may be interested in visiting some of the local
lakes, to fish or camp. Patterson, Pearrygin, Buck, Blackpine, and Big
Twin Lakes are all popular spots. In the mountains are many gems studding
the cirques. All are decorated with garlands of willows and sedges, and
some have water lilies (
Nuphar polysepalum), water buttercup (
Ranunculus
aquatilis) or the carnivorous/insectivorous bladderwort (
Utricularia
vulgaris). Look for the hapless bodies of its prey caught in special
underwater trapdoors within the leaves. The bladderwort family can have
showy flowers when low water comes, and my personal favorite in group (scrophs
and close relatives) is the sky blue butterwort (
Pinguicula vulgaris),
which occurs circumboreally in bogs at high elevation, and uses uses viscid
flowers to catch flying insects.
Actually, there are cool spots everywhere, but they might not have as
great a view. In shady, wet forests, a good place to cool off is next to
the coolwort foamflower (
Tiarella spp.). Tiarellas keep good company,
preferring bog orchids (
Platanthera spp.), white shooting stars
(
Dodecatheon dentatum) and grass-of-Parnassus (
Parnassia fimbriata)
in mossy seeps. This year had a greater-than average number of biting flies
in the mountains, so I took along some of my special blend of fly repellant,
however sometimes the only way to escape them is to jump into one of those
icy streams. Just be prepared for anything.
AUGUST BLOOM REPORTS
August 1993
Rain, rain, go away, mushrooms, mushrooms, mushrooms. There were a lot
of mushrooms growing where there were never any before. Morels were popping
up in the most unexpected places. By August, we were still waiting for
the East Cascades' blast furnace to kick into action.
The main August flower action was occurring at about 5500 to 6000 feet
elevation, and by choosing the aspect, one could still find early-season
plants of
Phlox diffusa and
Draba growing fairly close to
later season plants like lovage (
Ligusticum canbyi and
L. grayi)
and yarrow (
Achillea millefolium). Western anemone, old man's beard,
or mouse-on-a-stick (
Anemone occidentalis) is very showy in alpine
meadows now, and hikers could find mixes of paintbrushes of all colors,
Senecios
in gold, orange and yellow, elephant's heads (
Pedicularis groenlandica)
in pink, bog-orchids (
Platanthera spp.) in white and green, pussy-toes
(
Antennaria spp.) in pinks and greenish shades, and on sandy slopes,
the off-white of dirty socks (
Eriogonum pyrolifolium). This amazing
plant has a flexible root that allows the flowering crown to move around
in endless whirling circles above the ground--truly a dizzy plant. Be sure
to walk carefully when viewing the elephant's heads and bog-orchids, not
just to see them better and to keep from sinking into their boggy habitats,
but also to become aware of some of the smaller denizens of wet areas,
like butterwort (
Pinguicula vulgaris) and sundews (
Drosera
spp.), both insectivorous and probably well-fed in this buggy year. The
wet areas also support attractive sedges and the rayless alpine butterweed
(
Senecio indecorus), certainly the most-photographed alpine
Senecio,
for its infloresences of sunburst-orange buttons.
Drier slopes were lush with the blues of lupines and larkspurs and the
whites, pinks and yellows of the mountain-heathers,
Phyllodoce and
Cassiope,
Greek goddesses of the high country. Be sure to notice our alpine green
fescue (
Festuca viridula), which is green and wiry-leaved with tall,
graceful, reddish heads in dry meadows above 6000 feet elevation.
Hart's Pass is a good place to see all of these and much more, but beware
of heavy traffic up and down that awful road on weekends. It is possible
to see both the purple and the white varieties of paintbrush (both color
variants of
Castilleja parviflora var.
albida). There are
a number of high quality wildflower shows on trails accessible along Highway
20 (Rainy Lake, Blue Lake, Easy Pass) and the upper Twisp River (North
Lake, Twisp Pass, Copper Pass, South Creek, as well as along all the tributaries
between Blackpine Lake and the end of the Twisp River road). Hikers and
horseback riders will have plenty to do in the Pasayten and Chelan-Sawtooth
Wilderness areas. As the month progresses, huckleberry and raspberry patches
will be getting ripe; be sure to leave some for the bears!
SEPTEMBER BLOOM REPORTS
September 1995
It is always a sad time when the gentians come out because it means
that summer is over and fall is here. One could find
Gentiana calycosa
blooming in September in all its regal splendor in the high country wet
meadows. Other plants that have their last floral fling in September are
grass-of-Parnassus (
Parnassia fimbriata), a little white-flowered
saxifrage of wet areas, the bluebells of Scotland (
Campanula rotundifolia),
and the leafy aster (
Aster foliaceus). People often want to know
the difference between an aster and a daisy, and this is their answer.
If it blooms later, its an aster, earlier, a daisy. Also, asters tend to
be blue rather than white, and they have overlapping bracts on the flower
heads. The wandering daisy (
Erigeron peregrinus) is the most confusing
aster-like daisy we have around here. It blooms late for a daisy because
it grows at high elevations, but it is still earlier than leafy aster,
which it resembles strongly. To make a positive identification, turn over
a flower head to see if the green sheathing bracts are leafy, making the
plant
Aster foliaceus, instead.
Other high country plants were still managing to hold on to what was
left of summer, notably monkshood (
Aconitum columbianum), yarrow
(
Achillea millefolium), pearly everlasting (
Anaphalis margaritacea),
and lovage (
Ligusticum spp.). Actually it is more proper during
this time of year to talk about berries, specifically huckleberries of
every shape, color and flavor. Some people prefer
Vaccinium deliciosum,
which from the name is obviously very tasty, and which grows above 5000
feet from Hart's Pass west. Some prefer the tarter thinleaf huckleberry
(
Vaccinium membranaceum) that grows at slightly lower elevations,
primarily in the upper montane zone. There are the little red dwarf whortleberries
or grouse whortleberries (
Vaccinium scoparium), and the little blue
berries of the diminutive
Vaccinium caespitosum, both more valuable
for fall color displays than what can be gotten by trying to make a meal.
Ross Lake area is the center of huckleberry distribution in the Cascades,
which also has four species of the closely related salal, one species of
which tastes like Hawaiian Punch (
Gaultheria ovatifolia). Incidentally,
the common salal was a major staple of the tribes, who combined them into
pemmican, a food made to last for long periods without losing vitality.
We northwesterners also have dewberries and salmonberries (related to raspberries),
highbush cranberries and blue elderberries (both related to honeysuckle,
but not poisonous or inedible like other members in that family, such as
red elderberry). The west Cascades has been overrun by Himalayan and cut-leaf
blackberries (
Rubus discolor and
R. laciniatus), but we eastsiders
consider it almost a rite to take a trip over the pass and get some each
year. Delicious though they may be, they have taken over thousands of acres
of native vegetation in the state.
As fall passes, be sure to notice all the grasses in their different
colors. Be careful with campfires, which can get out of control quickly
in dry grass. Also watch out for yellow jackets and their kin. They get
a bad temper after summer from dealing with the depredations of man, bear
and bird. And watch out for the drunk bumblebees. Fermenting flower nectar
and cold weather often leaves them groggily wandering across the last of
the thistle tops.
NOVEMBER BLOOM REPORTS
November 1995
With winter upon us, it is time to reflect upon the summer and reassess
the prospects for next year. The summer of 1995 was a bountiful season
and large crops of cones were harvested right up to the last minute by
Douglas squirrels. Bright red rose hips still advertise to birds and animals
that their dense tangles of bright red canes can provide food, shelter
and perches through the winter. As winter snows begin to fall, many of
our northwest plants carry on their lives beneath the snow.
Snowpacks keep life hovering at a slow, but tolerable 32 degrees, and
though the winds may be howling above, it is calm below. Many of our northwest
shrubs have leaves that are evergreen or semi-evergreen (tardily deciduous),
which allows them to carry out photosynthesis under the snow. Plants with
evergreen leaves make the most attractive wreaths, so it is good to remember
the summer location of patches of kinnickinnick (
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi),
Oregon grape (
Berberis aquifolium), and mountain lover (
Pachystima
myrsinites). During December, one may dig down and find them there,
green and very alive. The kinnickinnick, also called bearberry, has attractive
red berries that contrast with the foliage, but cut sprigs will brown quickly
if allowed to dry out.
A unique plant adaptation that is characteristic in climates with hot
summers and snowy winters is the herbaceous perennial. Many of our showiest
wildflowers have extensive to downright enormous root systems, and these
become enlarged in the spring. For rodents this would mean a continuous
food supply, except that the native plants are all good producers of chemical
deterrents to herbivory. Thus Mr. and Mrs. Mouse tend to prefer the succulent
roots of more short-lived plants such as Senecio, knapweeds and dandelion,
not to mention those expensive things you bought at the nursery.
Some of our native plants produce a second crop of blooms in the fall.
For instance, some of the composites and groundsmokes (
Gayophytum spp.)
can put on a second set of blooms in November. The blooms are admittedly
tiny, but the evening-primrose-like flowers of
Gayophytum diffusum,
or the waterfalls of nearly-frozen
Mimulus floribundus scattered
like stars in the diffuse inflorescences makes them a welcome fall or winter
surprise. Richardson's penstemon (
Penstemon richardsonii) may flower
after the snows, because it sometimes inhabits the cooler recesses of rock
crevices, where its stems may emerge onto warm rocks after fall. Another
late bloomer of the sagebrush zone is blazing star (
Mentzelia laevicaulis),
a biennial which sometimes just doesn't quit. Look for in roadcuts on the
Omak side of the Loup-Loup Highway. The showy white tassels of traveller's
joy (
Clematis ligusticifolia), in the buttercup family, and also
one of our only vines, are visible all year. Vines are uncommon in the
interior west because the buds are unprotected by the snow in the harsh
winters.
Although the alders are traditionally thought of as being the earliest
flowers in the Okanogan, two wild plants that can bloom on New Year's day
are
Mimulus floribundus and
Phlox caespitosa, and thus these
are among our latest, as well as our earliest, flowers. They grow near
the Chelan Bridge, where the Highway Department, Bonneville Power, and
gravel pit operators are trying hard to make them disappear.
Other areas of botany that can be explored during winter include lichens
and mosses. Mural lichens attain their peak colors when melting snows soften
them and expand their tissues. Some mosses come out very early, particularly
in springs and seeps. Winter buds make attractive shows and offer an interesting,
alternative way of studying botany in winter. A number of keys are available.
Did you know that a willow only has one bud scale, called a perule?
Winter is a time of remembrances. For the many Methow photographers
it is a time to organize their photos and have slide shows and pot-lucks.
See you there.